76 rows Singer EN Series Serial Numbers. ISMACS International International Sewing Machine. Serial numbers for the years 1851 to 1870 are not available. Serial numbers on Singer sewing machines manufactured prior to 1900 are numbers only. After 1900, the machine serial numbers have a single or two-letter prefix. Use It or Lose It: Singer 319W. I'm up to machine #8 in the inventory of sewing machines in my collection. This is a c.1954 Singer 319W. I thrifted this machine long, long ago and far away, but it needed re-wiring and I just never got around to it - until now. The 319W was one of Singer's first 'swing needle' or zig-zag machines ever made. Observe the serial number. For machines produced before 1900, the serial number will be only numbers, according to the Singer Company. For post-1900 machines, one or two letters will precede the number.
This is by far the most asked question I hear from my blog readers. Sadly, I am not an Appraiser and cannot give you an estimated value on your old sewing machine. But what I can do is give you information to help you get closer to finding a value on your own. In some ways, putting a price on an old sewing machine can be subjective. How can you put a dollar amount on sentimental value? And is something worth money just because it is old? Actually, there are lots of variables to estimating the worth of an old sewing machine, so let's look at the most important; the make/model and date, the condition, and any extras that may be included with the machine. IDENTIFY YOUR MACHINE
Once you know the specific brand and make or model of your machine, it makes it easier to search for more information about your machine. Use the links below to find out more about your machine.
BERNINA There aren't any comprehensive lists for identifying models or manufacture dates for old BERNINA machines available online. You can try visiting your nearest BERNINA store to find out if they can help, you might get lucky and find an authorized BERNINA Technician that's been around forever and knows all about the older models. Or you can look at this brief history of BERNINA sewing machines at BERNINA.com to see if you can find a similar model to yours. And this just in, visit this page to find out the year of manufacture by the code included in the machine serial number. ELNA Visit the official Elna webpage to contact the company directly. You can also check out the NeedleBar's Elna page for nice photos of vintage models, and the ISMACS History of Elna page. NEW HOME Visit the New Home webpage at the ISMACS website, (the International Sewing Machine Collector's website) or call Janome (New Home) at 1-800-631-0183. PFAFF Visit the Pfaff information page at the ISMACS website, which includes a chart for dating information based on serial number. SINGER Singer was the leader in sewing machine manufacturers in the early 20th Century, and there are lots of resources for finding out more about your old Singer.
And some Singer machines are more saught-after than others! Here's an article listing the Top 5 Best Vintage Singer Models, and many people who collect and sew with vintage Singer machines do love and seek out these particular models.
WHITE Check out the White/Viking pages at the ISMACS site. MISCELLANEOUS/OTHER BRANDS There were a small handful of manufacturers who made 'generic' machines in the mid 20th Century (like the Morse pictured above). Many of them were based on a Singer class 15 machine, and are commonly known as 'Singer Clones' - read a bit more about them here. See several photos and read even more here. If your sewing machine looks a lot like these machines but has an off brand name, chances are you have a generic or clone machine. CONDITION
The overall condition of your machine is one of the biggest factors in estimating a value. Make sure to take a very thorough inventory of your machine and record the condition of the finish, any electrical cords or belts, decals, chrome or metal parts, motor, the inside working parts of the machine, and how the machine works or performs. Be sure to also look closely at the condition of the case or cabinet, including if it is still original to the machine and if it has been refinished or restored. The overall condition can be communicated by one of the following terms:
Mint = Still new from the factory, in original packaging or condition, and never, ever used. It is nigh impossible to find an old sewing machine in mint condition! Excellent = In the best shape possible, but used. No chips, scratches or dents, no wear or tear, no rust or dust, in top notch running order. Complete with no parts missing. Very Good = May have a few scratches or small cosmetic blemishes, dents or dings, but works well and does not need any additional work to use the machine. Complete with no parts missing. Good = Some cosmetic damage to finish, but nothing to keep the machine from working. May be missing some accessories or manual. Fair = A machine that has definitely been used, possibly not kept up as well as others. Usual wear and tear for a well used machine, pin scratches, some dings in finish, some rubbing off of decals, but machine should work. Some accessories missing or in non-working order, manual may be damaged or missing. Poor = A machine that has been used hard or has weathered badly. Extensive damage to the finish like rubbed off decals, scratches from use, dings in the finish, possibly some surface rust. Electrical cords may be frayed, and machine should work, but is not in top-notch running order. Probably missing some or all accessories or manual, or parts like extra bobbins. Definitely needs a little TLC and possibly some restoration. Parts Only/Parts Machine = Totally unable to be salvaged for use, and is being sold ONLY for the parts in the machine. Most importantly, when you are comparing your machine to others just like it to try and find a value, refer to the conditions listed. Is your machine in comparable condition to the one you are looking at, or is it in worse or better shape? It goes without saying that the better the overall condition, the better the price and vise versa. ACCESSORIES
Being able to identify which accessories, presser feet, or other 'stuff' is with your old machine can be helpful, plus a machine with extras is generally worth more and sells for a higher price than just a stand-alone machine.
DOCUMENTATION If you have the original bill of sale or other sales documentation with your old machine, count yourself very lucky! Keep this paperwork in a safe place, like a folder or envelope to keep the paper safely away from direct contact with the machine to avoid oil stains. Many times manuals are not with machines or are badly damaged. If you have the original manual, store it in a folder or envelope to keep it safe from oil stains from your machine. If you're in need of a manual, check the ISMACS site for a pretty complete list of downloadable manuals from many brands and models. If you have a machine that belonged to someone in your family, it may have been handed down through more than one family member. If this is the case, be sure to record as much as you can about the history of the machine; this includes it's origins, and any information about the various owners, and even what may have been sewn with the machine (family heirlooms, wedding dresses, christening gowns, family quilts, etc.). Keep this information safe in a folder or envelope, and keep it updated as much as you can. ESTIMATING A VALUE INDUSTRIAL/DOMESTIC Take a quick look at The Difference Between Domestic & Industrial Sewing Machines. Vintage home sewing machines are not 'industrial', 'heavy-duty', 'industrial grade', 'semi-industrial', nor are they manufactured to sew anything other than regular home sewing projects. Be sure you understand the difference and know what you have! APPRAISALS/INSURANCE VALUE If your machine is truly an antique (manufactured before 1900), or if you really want to be sure about the worth, you may want to hire an appraiser to value your machine. Have the appraisal in person, and get it in writing; it's well worth the cost, both for insurance purposes or to set a realistic selling price. Find a local auction or antique house near you and call to inquire about appraisal services. Or read more about appraisers in this article from CNN. RESALE VALUE/SELLING PRICE When you have as much information as you can find about your machine, you are ready to do some research to find a comparative market price. The key to this process is to find what machines just like yours, in the same kind of condition, have recently sold for. The trick is to look in as many places as possible and find what seems to be the most popular or often seen price for a machine just like yours in the same condition with similar extras. If you see lots and lots of listings for your type of machine, it probably means that there were many manufactured and there is not a huge demand. Or, you may have a hard time finding a machine like yours it could mean there aren't a lot out there - in which case you might consider contacting a professional appraiser for help. Where to look: Singer Manufacturing Company Serial NumbersYou can visit local shops that often carry old machines to see what local prices look like, and if there are any for sale like yours. Ask your friends that regularly go antiquing to help you look, too. eBay If you've got an eBay account, do a search for your machine and be sure to do an 'Advanced' search, checking the 'Completed Listings' box on the search page. This will show you auctions that have ended and the final selling price of the sewing machines. Etsy ![]() There are lots of old, vintage and antique machines for sale on Etsy, but it can be more difficult to separate out over inflated prices from what an actual fair market price may be. Try to look at as many of the same model as possible and see what the price range may be. If you see 6 machines just like yours, and 5 are priced at about $100 dollars while one is $300, it's a good bet that a fair market value for the machine is in the $100 range. Craigslist (local) Just like Etsy, it can be difficult to separate out over inflated prices on Craigslist from what a fair price is. But, keep your eyes out for a machine like yours for a period of a few weeks and you may be able to see what kind of steady prices show up for a machine like yours. And, there are many more places you'll see on the web as well, even online stores solely dedicated to selling vintage machines. Like I mentioned above, find as many examples as you can for machines in similar condition as yours, and naturally your estimated price will be in the same ballpark. EVEN MORE Read even more about pricing or estimating values of old sewing machines: Determining The Value of Old Sewing Machines from Sewing Machine Repair Tips How Much Is My Sewing Machine Worth? from ISMACS Value of an Old Sewing Machine from Vintage Sewing Machines How Much is a Sewing Machine Worth? from Sew-Classic Antique Singer Sewing Machine Value from Antique Singer Sewing Machines
The Singer Model 27 and later model 127 were a series of lockstitchsewing machines produced by the Singer Manufacturing Company from the 1880s to the 1960s. (The 27 and the 127 were full-size versions of the Singer 28 and later model 128 which were three-quarter size). They were Singer's first sewing machines to make use of 'vibrating shuttle' technology. Millions were produced.[2] They are all steel and were built before the advent of planned obsolescence, and so they were designed to be repaired rather than replaced.[3] Consequently many remain today, some in collections and others still in service. In company literature they were called 'the woman's faithful friend the world over'.[4]
Identifying characteristics[edit]
The many Vintage Singer sewing machine models look very similar. All machines in the 27 series (VS-1, VS-2, VS-3, 27, 28, 127, and 128) have the following distinguishing characteristics that can be used to differentiate them from other Singer machines:
Identification guide
Program used to download torrent for windows 7. Within the 27 series are seen the following differences between versions:[5]
Vibrating shuttle[edit]
The 27 series was Singer's first[6] use of a vibrating shuttle as a bobbin driver, instead of the transverse shuttle design used in the older 'New Family' machine.
History[edit]
The design of the model 27 series began with Allen B. Wilson, who invented the vibrating shuttle in 1850 and sold machines built around it. Two decades later, when the patents had expired and the Sewing Machine Combinationpatent pool had dispersed, White Sewing Machine Company employees D'Arcy Porter and George W. Baker built a new machine that made successful use of it. The 'White Sewing Machine', as it was first named, entered production in 1876. It was popular in its time, and some of them remain.[7]
Figure 1 from Whitehill's patent 326821
In the decade that followed, another gentleman applied his mind to advancing the state of the art. Scottish immigrant Robert Whitehill (1 June 1845[8] – 24 November 1903[9]), founder of the Whitehill Manufacturing Company, became interested in sewing machines and subsequently patented an improvement to the take-up arm.[10] He proceeded to manufacture his own machines from about 1875[11] until 1883. He then designed the sewing machine which would shortly become Singer's answer to the White machine. He applied for patent on 1 July 1884 and received US patent 326821 on 22 September 1885.
In his design Whitehill retained the White machine's dimensions and most aspects of its exterior; his contribution mainly consists of the new interior. That is, he rethought the entire powertrain—the mechanism that carries energy from the handwheel to the needlebar, to the bobbin driver, and to the feed dogs. He also conceived the bullet-shaped shuttle, which the White machine promptly adopted over its more traditional boat shuttle.[12]
Model 27 advertising card: 'This machine is unequaled' (obverse)
He took his prototype to the Singer head office and showed it to the office manager James Bolton (1832–1916). Bolton was thrilled with the machine and suggested a sewing competition against the best Singer models on-hand at the factory. Whitehill's prototype prevailed, and he sold the rights to it for USD 8,000 (USD 212,000 adjusted), with USD 1,000 held in reserve until he had perfected it for them.[13]
At the time, Singer was already selling two 'high arm' models (one a chain stitcher, the other an oscillating shuttle) which represented a new break from the company's established history of 'low arm' machines. The Whitehill design became the third Singer machine with a high arm, and quickly eclipsed the other two—neither of which Bolton liked anyway.[14] The Whitehill machine took the name 'Vibrating Shuttle 1' when, two years later, it evolved into the improved 'Vibrating Shuttle 2'.
Within a couple of years Scientific American took notice, and printed the following praise for Whitehill's design, especially for its powertrain:[15]
Of Vibrating Shuttles
These are shuttles of the long description, moving in a segment of a circle. There are several varieties. The most novel machine of this kind is the vibrating shuttle machine just produced by the Singer Manufacturing Company. In this case the shuttle itself consists of a steel tube, into the open end of which the wound reel is dropped, and is free to revolve quite loosely. Variation of tension is thus obviated in a very simple manner. The chief point of interest in the machine is undoubtedly the means employed in transferring the motion from the main shaft to the underneath parts, an arrangement as ingenious and effective as any device ever introduced into stitching mechanism. It is the invention of Mr. Robert Whitehall [sic], and consists of a vertical rocking shaft situated in the arm of the machine[.] Motion is imparted to it by means of an elbow formed upon the main shaft acting upon two arms, called wipers, projecting from the rocking shaft, the angle formed by the arms exactly coinciding with that of the elbow in its revolution. This admirable motion will no doubt attract much attention from mechanists and engineers. Production[edit]
The 27 series had a long production run, including improved versions and many variants tailored to customer needs.
Pedigree of the model 27 series
Versions[edit]
Model 27-2 shown in an 1892 trade card (reverse)
The model series evolved over time through these versions:
Portable versions[edit]
A model 27/127 coincidentally weighs 27 pounds (12 kg), plus the weight of its motor, treadle, or hand crank, its light, and its case or cabinet. Such a weight strains the meaning of the term 'portable', even when fitted with only a hand crank and minimal wood case. (Today's laptop computers typically weigh 3 to 5 pounds (1.4 to 2.3 kg).) This quickly led Singer to produce a 3/4ths size version intended for portability, exactly as the White Sewing Machine Company was doing with its new 3/4ths size 'Peerless' machine.
Singer's portable version evolved thus:
Modernization[edit]
Models 127 and 128 are the 'modernized' versions of the 27 and 28, and carry the following improvements:
Shuttle changes[edit]
With each major new version came changes in the shuttle:[17]
None of the four shuttle models can be substituted for each other; if they even fit at all, they will cause skipped stitches. However, there was once an aftermarket of replacement shuttles, and the replacements were sometimes contrived to be compatible with both the 27/28 and 127/128 models. Consequently there are extant shuttles which have no stamped part number and which bear the features of both the 8301 and 54504.
Variations[edit]
Once production settled down into the model 27 and 28 versions, Singer produced many variants that were intended for different cabinets and power sources. The variant number was listed after the version number and (except for the K designation) a dash; for example, the model 27 standard treadle variant is '27-3'.
Production records[edit]
Many records from the era of the 27/127 are missing, so the production timeline is spotty. The following is the best information available from the Singer archives.[22]
Knock-offs[edit]
White Sewing Machine Company's 'Number 8', a copy of the model 127
At about USD100 apiece (about USD2500 adjusted), Singer sewing machines were pricey, even considering the payment plans and trade-in allowances that were offered. The high prices created a demand for knock-offs made by bargain competitors. The main competitors were Sears Roebuck & Co and Montgomery Wards & Co, who sold copied Singer models made by a variety of manufacturers:[23]
Power[edit]
The 27 model series had three options for power: foot treadle, hand crank, and external electric motor.
Treadle[edit]
Diagram of treadle table from 1896 instruction manual
Ismacs Singer Serial Number Database
A treadle obtains power from the user's legs. Early treadles were for just one foot making a heel-toe rocking motion, but all later treadles, including those offered with 27-series machines, were for two feet making a left-heel-right-toe (or vice versa) motion. The treadle provided with 27-series machines has a negative mechanical advantage: one complete down-up motion produces exactly four stitches.[25]
As a foot treadle, the machine mounts in a cabinet about the size of an adult schooldesk. The treadle pad is built into the cabinet's base right at the user's feet. A round leather 'treadle belt' passes up from the treadle, up through the cabinet, over the handwheel by following the belt groove, back down through the cabinet again, and then back to the treadle.
The belt is joined end-to-end with a clip to make a loop, and can be shortened and reclipped (using special 'treadle belt pliers') as needed to keep proper tension. The treadle belt is tanned leather, 3/16' in diameter, and is normally sold in 72' lengths.
Hand crank[edit]
Model 128 with hand crank
Hand cranks provide greater portability at the cost of greater exertion. A hand crank machine fit in a small case, making it a piece of luggage rather than a piece of furniture. It also cost significantly less than a full treadle. Indeed, the 3/4th size model 28/128 derivative was specifically intended for this end.
The crank is geared to give a negative mechanical advantage so that it can crank the machine at high speed. Each rotation of the crank handle produces three rotations of the handwheel, and hence three stitches.
External electric motor[edit]
Electric motors were offered (by Singer and others) to retrofit these and other treadle machines with electric power.
Cabinet-mount[edit]
Philip Diehl's treadle-controlled electric motor
Early electric conversions consisted of mounting a motor in the treadle cabinet. The treadle belt was shortened to run only from the motor's pulley to the handwheel. The treadle pad was then given a mechanism for controlling the motor's speed in the manner of a modern car gas pedal.[26]
These conversions were invented and developed by Philip Diehl, an inventor under contract with Singer.[27] His efforts bore fruit in 1884,[28] before the first VS-1 was even built and fully five years before Singer's first natively electrified model.[29] He continued to make improvements for many years thereafter.[30]
Pillar-mount[edit]
Figure 3 from Frederick Diehl's pillar-mount motor patent
Later motor kits dispensed entirely with the treadle, treadle belt, and cabinet. The motor bolted right to the machine's pillar, where—thanks to its compact size—it could remain even when the machine was tilted into its cabinet or enclosed within its cover. This was an improvement over earlier pivoting-motor designs,[31] large offset belt-drive motors,[32] and the many schemes for entirely replacing the handwheel with a motor.[33] Credit for the original idea may belong to George F. Green, who proposed it back in 1879[34] but was probably unable to build or obtain the sufficiently compact motor required by his design. It was Frederick Diehl and Martin Hemler, Singer employees, who finally developed the idea in 1921.[35]
Add-on motor kit showing pedal-controlled electrical outlet
Speed is controlled by a rheostat, originally mounted on the treadle pad[36] but later as an independent pedal for foot or knee control. The kit includes a dual electrical outlet that mounts alongside the machine in its case: one outlet is for the motor and is controlled by the foot pedal; the other is for a sewing lamp (see below) and is always energized. A sewing machine thus electrified now fit entirely inside a woman-portable carrying case.
Electric motors became so common that Singer made provision for them: the model 127/128 'modernized' versions included mounting lugs for a motor, whereas earlier models had to be drilled and tapped. Some 127/128 machines[37] were even given motors right at the factory, and of those, a few models[38] used a smaller lighter solid handwheel instead of the larger heavier spoked handwheel used on machines sold as treadles. The spoked handwheel is better for treadles because its larger inertia keeps it spinning longer, whereas the lighter solid handwheel is better for motors because its smaller inertia causes it to start and stop more quickly.
Model 27 soldid handweel
A few older 27 and 28 machines have also shown up with solid handwheels, which they must have received retrofit during the addition of their electric motor.
Belts[edit]
Advertising card from 1920s showing motor kit (obverse)
The add-on motor drives the handwheel by means of a rubber belt. Meanwhile the bobbin winder has a separate belt: the models 27 and 28 drive the bobbin winder using a long round or V belt to the motor, whereas the 'modernized' models 127 and 128 drive the bobbin winder directly off the handwheel by means of a small 'ring belt' or 'bobbin belt' acting as a tire.
Difficulties with 27/28 bobbin winder belt[edit]
An extra pulley tack-welded on, to drive the bobbin winder
Models 27 and 28 were designed before electrified sewing machines were common, and the location of the bobbin winder reflects this. It is positioned to intercept the treadle belt as it passes back down into the cabinet. Motorization removes the treadle belt and so opens the question of how to drive the bobbin winder.
To answer this, the modernized models 127 and 128 moved the bobbin winder up several inches where, with a suitable tire, it can run directly off the handwheel. The older 27 and 28, on the other hand, require a dedicated belt to drive the bobbin winder, but the motor kit only has one pulley, resulting in problems:
One solution to the problem has been spotted in a wild: tack-weld a second pulley onto the motor pulley, as shown in the picture.
Sewing lamp[edit]
Singerlight clone and motor from Mercury
Diagram from Diehl's Singerlight patent
Motor kits usually included a sewing lamp. Singer's motor kits and factory motorizations each included one of two different sorts of lamp:
As there were many clones of the add-on motor, so also were there many clones of the Singerlight. Mercury Electric Products Manufacturing Company, aka MEPM, was one of the third-party vendors of such products.
Finish and decals[edit]
Most machines in this model series are painted in Japan black lacquer, but some of the later variants (127-12, 127-14, 127-23, 128-8, 128-12, 128-14, and 128-18) were instead finished in the newly fashionable, low-glare 'black wrinkle' (aka 'Godzilla' or 'black crinkle') finish. They were all then 'ornamented' with extensive eye-catching decals. Common decal sets have names and are shown below; alternatively, many machines carry nondescript floral patterns.
Accessories[edit]
27-series machines have a standard 'low shank' and so are compatible with all ordinary low-shank attachments.
Singer also produced many attachments specifically for their own machines 'which will enable you to accomplish a great variety of work with a minimum of time and effort.. attachments which can give your home sewing that smart professional look.'[41]
'Style' boxes[edit]
'Style No. 14' puzzle box
Singer accessory kits were sold in fold-out 'Style' boxes, numbered consecutively as newer versions evolved from older ones. The numbers begin at 1 ('Style No. 1') and culminate at 14 during the era of the 27 model series. The boxes included accessory attachments for hemming, braiding, underbraiding, tucking, shirring, binding, quilting, and ruffling, plus spare needles, bobbins, screws, and screwdrivers.
Today such a box is called a 'puzzle box', but this is a recent term: it is not mentioned in the original Style manuals.
Ismacs Serial Number DatabaseHemstitcher[edit]
Singer separately sold a hemstitching attachment that is compatible with 27-series machines. The original version is a passive device, Singer part number 28915.[42] Later, a more sophisticated needle-clamp-powered attachment was offered—Singer part number 121387.
Buttonholer[edit]
Singer model 489510 buttonholer (complete kit)
Because 27-series machines cannot natively sew a zigzag stitch, they cannot feasibly sew a buttonhole. To rectify this, Singer produced an evolving line of buttonholer attachments that mount on the machine's shank and provide the missing functionality.
Zigzagger[edit]
Singer model 160985 zigzagger (complete kit)
Singer made an attachment similar to its buttonholer, and using a similar needle-clamp-powered locomotion, in order to confer some zigzagging ability on its straight-stitch machines.
Of the variety of 'Singer Automatic Zigzagger' attachments produced over the years, two are compatible with 27-series machines: Singer part numbers 160985 and 161102.
Blind stitcher[edit]
The blind stitcher is yet another needle-clamp-powered attachment designed to ease a specific sewing task. Singer part number 160616 is compatible with 27-series machines.
Ismacs Singer Serial NumberIn popular culture[edit]
References[edit]
External links[edit]
Singer online manuals: Contemporary precalculus a graphing approach 5th edition pdf download.
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